Life in Prespa has to a large extent been shaped by the means employed to maintain it: agriculture, animal husbandry and fishing. These in turn have been shaped by the environment of the villagers with those villages closest to the lake being most dependent upon it. Even today these activities are the principle employment for most Prespiots. In the high mountain pastures, there are still visiting summer families of Sarakatsani, a transhumant shepherding community. In the lower valleys near settlements and rivers are groves of fruit and nut trees amongst small agricultural plots and the villager’s kitchen gardens. The flat plains above the lake are almost entirely given over to commercial production of the large white haricot beans for which Prespa is justifiably famous. Although relatively little fishing takes place these days the two lakeside villages of Psaradhes and Mikrolimni are still very much defined by those whose lives are spent on the water.

Historically the villages split into those of Upper Prespa and Lower Prespa. This corresponded with the inclusion of Upper Prespa in the administrative district of Korce and that of Lower Prespa in Monastir (modern day Bitola).

Upper Prespa

At the furthest end of Prespa is Vrondero. Nestled in a secluded valley it is characterised by the low reed thatched sheepfolds that surround it. The village of Pili lies at the beginning of the Vrondero road and once was closer to the lake, as the evidence of its old Byzantine church amongst the lakeside reed beds suggests. Just before Pili is the turn off for the bridge to the island of Agios Achillios. Until recently the only access to the island was by boat and visitors could call to arrange this transport. The building of a bridge in 2000 sadly changed this rather romantic journey but it can still easily be arranged and it remains the best way to approach the island. Agios Achillios is one of the jewels of Prespa. The last of the villages of Upper Prespa as was is the fishing settlement at Psaradhes whose name means ‘fishermen’. It is home to a specially bred type of dwarf cattle unique to Prespa Psaradhes is where you’ll need to be to hire one of the boats that will take you out to visit the hermitages and rock frescos.

At the base of Mount Devas, just by the turn off for Prespa is a small cluster of buildings known as Koula. Swimming is allowed in the big lake and it is wonderful in summer to lie on your back in the cool water and watch the Pelicans as the soar down to land in the deeper waters beyond you.

Lower Prespa

As you enter the Prespa lake basin and descend from the pass at Pervali the first branch in the road will take you to the small villages of Oxia and Mikrolimni. Oxia is the staring point for walks up into the majestic Sfika mountain range. Mikrolimni is the other fishing village in the area. The villages of Karies, Lefkona, Kallithea and Plati are all at the base of the mountains on the west side of the smaller lake. The villages of Laimos and Agios Germanos form the practical and administrative centre of Prespa.